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Varanasi

Whilst  reading THE CULTUREUR this afternoon, I came across the post SPIRITUAL CHAOS ON THE HARIDWAR GHATS ALONG THE GANGES RIVER.

I immediately thought of Varansi (calm and chaos) and this inspired me to pull out some photos I recorded there during my last trip to India in 2011/2012.

I first went to India in 2009/10: see related blog here and some other photos here.

I have inserted my photos above, below and in between the comment by Wikipedia that enlightens us as follows “Varanasi (Hindustani pronunciation: [ʋaːˈraːɳəsi] (listen)), also commonly known as BenaresBanaras (Banāras [bəˈnaːrəs] (listen)) or Kashi (Kāśī [ˈkaːʃi] (listen)), is a city on the banks of the Ganges in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, 320 kilometres (200 mi) southeast of the state capital Lucknow.

It is regarded as a holy city by Hindus and Jains, and holiest of the seven most sacred Hindu cities (Sapta Puri), of its ancient historic, cultural and religious heritage. Hindus believe that death at Varanasi can bring salvation.

Body being transported to a ghat for cremation

It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the oldest in India.

Unfortunately many of its temples were subject to plundering and destruction by Mohammad Ghauri in the 12th century. The temples and religious institutions seen now in the city are mostly of the 18th century vintage.

The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi and an essential part of all religious celebrations.

The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the River Ganges and the river’s religious importance.

The city has been a cultural and religious centre in North India for several thousand years and is one of the world’s most important religious centres with a history which transcends and unites most of the major world religions.

The Benares Gharanaform of the Indian classical music developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians resided or reside in Varanasi. Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath located near Varanasi.

Varanasi is today considered to be the spiritual capital of India.Here scholarly books have been written.

Ramcharitmanas was composed by Tulsidas here while there is the temple Tulsi Manas Mandir that is famous here.

In addition to this, the largest residential University of Asia, Benares Hindu University is located here.

People often refer to Varanasi as “the city of temples”, “the holy city of India”, “the religious capital of India”, “the city of lights”, “the city of learning”, and “the oldest living city on earth.”

Ghats in Varanasi are an integral complimentary to the concept of divinity represented in physical, metaphysical and supernatural elements.

All the ghats are locations on “the divine cosmic road,” indicative of “its manifest transcendental dimension.” Varanasi has at least 84 ghats.

Steps in the ghats (ghats are embankments made in steps of stone slabs along the river bank where pilgrims perform ritual ablutions) lead to the banks of River Ganges, including the Dashashwamedh Ghat, the Manikarnika Ghat, the Panchganga Ghat and the Harishchandra Ghat (where Hindus cremate their dead).

Many ghats are associated with legends and several are now privately owned.Many of the ghats were built when the city was under Maratha control.

Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, and Peshwas stand out as patrons of present-day Varanasi.

Most of the ghats are bathing ghats, while others are used as cremation sites.

Flash not allowed at cremation ghat and my settings were off

Morning boat ride on the Ganges across the ghats is a popular visitors attraction. The miles and miles of ghats makes for the lovely river front with multitude of shrines, temples and palaces built “tier on tier above the water’s edge”.

The Dashashwamedh Ghat is the main and probably the oldest ghat of Varansi located on the Ganges, close to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.

It is believed that the god Brahma created it to welcome Shiva and he also sacrificed ten horses during Dasa -Ashwamedha yajna performed here.

Above the ghat and close to it, there are also temples dedicated to Sulatankesvara, Brahmesvara, Varahesvara, Abhaya Vinayaka, Ganga (the Ganges), and Bandi Devi which are part of important pilgrimage journeys.

A group of priests perform “Agni Pooja” (Worship to Fire) daily in the evening at this ghat as a dedication to Shiva, Ganga, Surya (Sun), Agni (Fire), and the whole universe.

Special aartis are held on Tuesdays and on religious festivals. The Manikarnika Ghat is the Mahasmasana (meaning: “great cremation ground”) and is the primary site for Hindu cremation in the city. Adjoining the ghat, there are raised platforms that are used for death anniversary rituals.

Flash not allowed at cremation ghat and my settings were off

It is said that an ear-ring (Manikarnika) of Shiva or his wife Sati fell here. According to a myth related to the Tarakesvara Temple, a Shiva temple at the ghat, Shiva whispers the Taraka mantra (“Prayer of the crossing”) in the ear of the dead.

Fourth-century Gupta period inscriptions mention this ghat. However, the current ghat as a permanent river side embankment was built in the 1302 and has been renovated at least thrice.”

I also found out that kite flying (or fighting) was important in Varanasi ; but even more so in Jaipur where the youngsters and adults ran around madly after fallen kites.

Emergency repairs

Fun in the afternoon

Rooftops were a hive of activity 

She “shared” her puppies with me (rooftop of Suraj Guest House; the owner’s daughter)

Suraj Guest House is a good bet when looking for somewhere to stay

The owner was very helpful and accommodating – visit Suraj website here

No post about Varanasi would be complete if Ganga Fuji Restaurant was not mentioned. The owner Kailash asks that you design a “country of origin” poster for his wall

Lovely non-oily food and great entertainment 

Some uninformed person called the food bland. The owner cooks exactly what you ask for i.e. freaking hot spicy or mild like a cucumber

Free entertainment 

Bhai on drums!

Ganga Fuji was recommended by the owner of Suraj: good contacts usually recommend good contacts

Impromptu hair appointment 

Roadside food stall

Outskirts of Varanasi – Chinese Buddhist temple at Sarnath

Sarnath is where Buddha gave his first sermon.

It was a lovely break from the hustle and bustle of Varanasi, but we will leave all of that for another day & post.

Some related posts you may be interested in:

Durga Puja, the Worship of the Hindu Goddess Durga, Returns to Calcutta, India (part 1) 

A World of Prayer

A must watch documentary filmed at Varanasi:

Beyond

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New Barns Farm & the trip into London

In the last post we were off to see the Queen.

After landing at Birmingham Airport, which we found to be really user-friendly, we went to the Avis kiosk to collect our car.

The sales person knew I wouldn’t be able to resist the upgrade he offered for a few more GBP.

After all it was a BMW 1-series red in colour. Lucky he told me how to start it otherwise I would still be looking for the keyhole; door and ignition.

 

We rented a Tom Tom GPS, inserted the post code of New Barns Farm and before you knew it, we were there.

Amazing stuff – no long address or getting lost. All one needs is the post code.

 

It was a little chilly when we arrived and getting dark so Mr Canon 550 stayed indoors in his bag most of the time.

 

The drive to the farm was very interesting and, had we stayed longer, we would have gone crazy taking pictures of cows, old buildings, churches, pubs, horses, the local inhabitants and dogs.

The underfloor heating and wireless inside New Barns was a bonus.

The company that evening was superb – we shared food, wines, laughter and tales with a couple that were due to get married, as well as other guests.

 

The next morning we drove from New Barns to Wimbledon where we left the car in a parking garage.

The pic above was part of another discovery called “services”, well signposted on the road. Garages for fuel, toilets, shops, restaurants, accommodation and so on.

We loved the free wireless and Upper Crust Baguettes. Their takeaway stores seemed to be all over the place.

Upon entering Wimbledon station we bought a 24 hour travel card for trains & buses.

I only managed one pic (shown above) on the train from Wimbledon to Waterloo station.

 

The trains were very clean and on time.

 

Mind the Gap!

 

 

 

It was not long before we reached Waterloo and I was soon reminded how snobbish and rude some Londoners can be.

We hadn’t even left the station before one information kiosk chap showed us “unfriendly”. This happened later in the day inside a famous store.

Maybe they were just having a bad day or decade.

Or it could be that us South Africans are just so friendly.

Port St Johns & Other Legends

Wikipedia describes Port St Johns as follows: “Port St. Johns (or Port Saint Johns) is a town of about 5000 people on the Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape province of South Africa. It is situated at the mouth of the Umzimvubu River, 220 kilometres (140 mi) northeast of East London and 70 kilometres (40 mi) east of Mthatha.”

South Africa Info is way more descriptive: “Port St Johns is a swashbuckling village of legend on the Pondo side of the Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape. It is also one of the highlights on any international backpacker’s world itinerary because of its natural setting, frontier atmosphere and appeal to more adventurous younger travellers.

The backpacker facilities in this African village are excellent. They cater for couples, solo travellers and small groups of young people. The backpacker lodges will help their guests set up activity itineraries every day, which include everything from jungle swings to unusual walking destinations.

Four backpacking establishments that come highly recommended in Port St Johns are:

The Island Backpackers Lodge
First Beach, Port St Johns, 5120
Tel/Fax: (047) 564 1958
Cell: 082 813 1611
E-mail:theisland@wildcoast.co.za
Web:www.theislandbackpackers.co.za

Amapondo Backpacker – HIGHLY RECOMENDED!!!
Second Beach Road, PO Box 190,
Port St Johns, 5120
Tel/: 081 257 4504
Cell: 083 315 3103
E-mail:info@amapondo.co.za
Web:www.amapondo.co.za

Ikaya ‘Le Intlabati (House On The Beach)
Second Beach, PO Box 32, Port St Johns, 5120
Tel/Fax: (047) 564 1266
Cell: 083 715 1421
E-mail:ikaya@telkomsa.net

Jungle Monkey
340 Berea Road, PO Box 130, Port St Johns, 5120
Tel/Fax: (047) 564 1517
E-mail:junglemonkey@iafrica.com

I stumbled upon PSJ (Port St Johns) for the second time in 2004. It has a special place in my heart.

Whilst I am no expert of the goings-on in PSJ, I do know a few things that work well for me when there:

  1. Jungle Monkey and Amapondo backpackers are great for a party; Spotted Grunter best if you want to sleep. Cremorne is on the North bank and neat
  2. The fishing is relaxing / laid-back if you want it to be; sometimes successful and sometimes not
  3. The food at Delicious Monster is “eat your fingers off your hand” stuff
  4. Cow pooh lines the airfield runway and the view from up there is refreshing / magnificent
  5. You can stay on the “cultured” side of the river  (North bank) or cultured side (South bank) – horses for courses
  6. Don’t swim in the sea as there are a lot of Sharks and attacks
  7. The drive to Poenskop is full of sights and it’s nice to fish there and have a picnic
  8. Crime is everywhere so be careful
  9. There is a gap in the mountain, which I have seen from a distance for good reason
  10. The sea is rough at times and the area has a history of shipwrecks
  11. There is an abandoned hotel (Cape Hermes) overlooking the sea
  12. The Sardines swim past in July / August
  13. Buy your food and drinks in the town – there area ample stores
  14. Visit PSJ at least once in your life if you are able to leave fussiness at home, drop any airs and graces, and “get down on the ground” with some of the locals – you will then have a laid-back rejuvenating holiday
  15. Read some more “facts” below

Early morning view from airfield

“Don’t land now as we are busy grazing”

The Gap

The birds are far & few but laid back 😉

Pic taken from Spotted Grunter side of river; Cremorne is in the rear

Buy your nuts, bananas and avocado pears on the roadside

The view from a table at DM (Delicious Monster) Restaurant at 2nd Beach

DM entrance

DM undercover & open eating / chill areas

DM specials

My no 1 dish Crayfish Thermidor

Timol’s choice of a meal

The other / alternative “facts”:

  1. During 2004 I met a chap by the name of Daryl. He stayed in PSJ on the side of a small river
  2. Whilst he may not have been an Angel and I’m sure wronged some people (like we all have), he was a gentleman
  3. He taught me few a few important things about life
  4. I did not take Daryl seriously when I first met him: he was dressed shabbily and did not have a few cents to rub together. However, looks can be very deceiving
  5. He made many claims about his “former” life. I thought him to be a storyteller of lies until he showed me some photographs that stunned me (shut my trap)
  6. He indirectly gave me relationship advice which turned out to be so true. I wish I had listened to him more carefully
  7. One day when chatting about load shedding (electrical supply cuts) for a few hours every week and how this “seriously” affected our lives, Daryl said “hey bru, that’s nothing. I never had electricity for 3 years”. This stumped us yet again.
  8. I caught a Salmon at Poenskop and gave it to Daryl. He was very appreciative.
  9. The next visit to PSJ I was gobsmacked to hear how Daryl stretched and shared that one fish with lots of people / neighbours
  10. Daryl was free diving one day when an octopus “attacked him”. His recount of this story every visit / every evening would have all and sunder in stitches / laughing our heads off
  11. One afternoon, when I first met Daryl, I needed salad dressing. I never thought to ask Daryl of all people. He offered to make me some and I hesitantly accepted; not knowing what on earth he would bring back. Daryl turned out to be a super talented cook – he came back with a fresh herb / creamy salad dressing that was so tasty. Again, Daryl proved that we should not judge a book by its cover
  12. In early April 2012 we again met up with Daryl and went on a fishing expedition to Poenskop
  13. Daryl was clearly suffering from a grave illness but made no fuss of it
  14. He slowly walked to and climbed onto the vehicle, and accompanied us – he made the effort albeit huge beyond what most would manage
  15. Daryl so unwell that he was not able to cast his line into the water – we had to help him
  16. Daryl still hasn’t told me why some call him “Double Barrel Daryl”
  17. He was an authority on many subjects

I have never telephoned Daryl although he gave me his mobile number years ago.

We called Daryl’s number last night; I’m not sure what made us do this. It might have been because we were sipping on a few beers, having fun, laughing and enjoying the company of family – the moment was good despite other heart-wrenching things going on in our lives at that time.

Alas, a feeling of sadness came over me when I heard that Daryl had passed away in April 2012 – no doubt shortly after that last fishing trip.

Below are some pics of the Legend.

Daryl in 2004 telling us the “octopus story”

The last fishing trip in early April 2012

Goodbye mate, until we meet again in person or spirit.

I can smell (that) Turkey

By the same time tonight, Timol and I will be cruising at an altitude of 35000 ft on an exciting trip. It will also be dinner time.

The menu on Emirates should be something like this:

Chicken breast

Grilled chicken breast with caramelised plums, served in a cranberry reduction, accompanied with mashed potatoes, baby spinach and carrot slices

Lamb brochette

Fillet of lamb marinated in Arabic spices, combined with assorted peppers, charcoal grilled and served with a cinnamon scented sauce, accompanied with broccoli, roasted baby corn and steamed rice

Dessert

Sticky date pudding – A delicious dessert served with caramel sauce

Red Wine

Cecilia Faugerres Oak Aged

Now what’s this about “I can smell (that) Turkey”..?

Well, it’s not that we will be eating turkey but that we will soon be seeing:-

And before I forget, if you have the time, please have a look at some of Marc Bega’s photos of his home cooking direct from Tamarin, Mauritius.

I have given him this exposure as I really hope that he will soon also get a WordPress blog up and running to showcase his lovely dishes and photos.

PS – maybe encourage him with a few messages if you like what you see!

These chaps can really snap

Last night Timol and I had one cracker of a party to celebrate going away (very soon) to yet another exciting travel destination.

Energy levels today do not allow me to pull out my PHD and search for some interesting photos.

Luckily, there are some really hot photographers on hand who publicly display their talents.

I have selected some of their photos to give you a taste, which will hopefully get you interested so that you click on their names below to link up to their sites, and view more of their great work (passion).

Sanjitpaal Singh

David Heath Williams

David Taylor

Stephanie Borcard

Andy Gray

 

Aaron Reed

Respectfully asked that his work be removed, but you can still click on his link to see some wonderful shots!

Obrigado Brazil

As with my trip to Thailand many years ago, I have some low quality photos that were scanned (low quality again) a year or two after my return.

Why hide them away? No good reason; so let’s have a peep.

I seem to recall the trip was in 2003 (my passport is presently with the authorities so enable a compulsory VISA for my next trip).

It was a long haul on SAA (our struggling national carrier) from Durban – Johannesburg –  São Paulo – Rio de Janeiro. Well, a long haul in those days as I was still a “junior” traveller.

The photo below was taken at the “old” airport in Durban before my departure.

 

I first stayed in a hotel, 2 or 3 stars, not far from Copacabana Beach in Rio. I took the photo below from my expensive room that I do not remember at all.

 

Prior to my departure I read about a biker gang that took over the city, although I cannot easily find any reference right now to that incident. I also watched the movie City of God (2002) Cidade de Deus (original title) three times after returning home – a good movie: highly recommended.

I did the usual tourist things like stopping in at the first bar to sample the beer.

 

Next of course was the beach to see what all the hype was about re: bikinis on Copacabana and Ipanema.

 

It was a quiet day on the beach, but Google does help one see what I missed.

 

But who cares about bikinis when there was an opportunity to pass some time with some fellow anglers.

The highlight in Rio was Cristo Redentor. The statue is 39.6 metres tall, including its 9.5 metres pedestal, and 30 metres wide. It weighs 635 tons, and is located at the peak of the 700 metre Corcovado mountain in the Tijuca Forest National Park overlooking the city.

I felt a sense of calm and stood in awe of this magnificent creation.

 

The view from the top of the mountain lovely.

 

I built up some courage a few days later and made my way via coach 150 kilometres to Angra dos Reis, where after I caught a local ferry to Ilha Grande.

Like all “good” coaches and taxis, there were the usual stops at “friend’s” shops along the way, usually the priciest along the road (mark-up to pay the driver and his boss no doubt).

The cans of Skol on the ferry, as seen in the photo, made me feel a lot safer among the locals, none of whom spoke a word of English.

 

I used the town of Vila do Abraão as my base camp on the island.

Lonely Planet gives a brief summary as follows: “The fabulous island retreat of Ilha Grande owes its pristine condition to its unusual history. First it was a pirates’ lair, then a leper colony and, finally, a prison for some of Brazil’s most violent and deranged criminals. All that remains of those days are some half-buried stone foundations, but the island’s unsavory reputation kept developers at bay for a long time. Consequently, beautiful tropical beaches and virgin Atlantic rain forest (now protected by the federal government) abound on Ihla Grande, and there are still only a few settlements on the island. Vila do Abraão, the only town of any size on Ilha Grande, was itself a sleepy fishing village until 30 years ago. Recently, there’s been a steady stream of new pousadas and bars popping up, but this palm-studded beachfront town with its tidy white church is still incredibly picturesque, and remains small by mainland Brazil standards. Except for Abraão’s lone garbage truck, fire engine and police vehicle, cars are not allowed in town, so the only transport here is by foot or boat. The village comprises a few dirt roads, and everybody congregates down near the dock and beach at night. On weekends and during high season it can get a bit claustrophobic in Vila do Abraão, but you can easily escape the crowds by hiking a few steps out of town in any ­direction.”

 

The photo above was taken from the room of the first pousada (inn) that I stayed at.

 

To say life on the island was laid-back does not do justice to just how relaxed life there appears to be.

Naturally, a good few bottles of Skol made me feel like a local within hours.

As luck would have it, on the weekend I was there, a music festival with some well-known Brazilian singers / artists was about to commence.

 

The Festival of Music and Ecology in Ilha Grande was an unexpected surprise.

During this festival, known and unknown local musicians offer free Brazillian music performances to the public. These shows are free, and can be seen in the village of Vila Abraao. The first part of this festival is held on the main land, at the wharf of Santa Luzia, but during the first week of July, the festival comes to Ilha Grande (may change from year to year).

 

Prior to the concert, some of the artists and fans gathered in a local bar where I sat, and played their instruments. Certainly an unforgettable part of the trip, listening to the lovely tunes and watching the camaraderie unfold.

 

 

I moved to another “inn” and recall two things from my stay there:

  1. an old man and his young lady  “friend” keeping me awake at night
  2. not taking my eyes off my fresh fruit salad bowl at breakfast every morning in case the old man caught me looking up and wondering what the hell was going on

 

I took a few boat trips around the island.

 

A few visits to Lopes Mendes Beach of course.

 

I even tried my luck at body-board surfing.

 

The island is mountainous with narrow gravel paths where one would no doubt get lost. So it was beach to beach (town to town) via boat.

 

I recall hearing the song Zombie playing when leaving the island. There is more to the story (yes, why would I remember the song). It has stuck in my head since then.

Next stop before returning to Rio was Paraty, which apparently means “river of fish” in the Tupi language.

An “old town” with cobblestones, horses, carts and churches. The new town with all the mod stuff.

I did a canoe trip in the mangroves and was surprised to be told that a fish we back home call “bait” is considered a delicacy in Paraty.Brazilian: Mullet (Mugil brasiliensis).

The trip leader also ranted non-stop about:

  1. corruption in Brazil
  2. Brazilian footballers only wanting expensive cars and blond girlfriends

The bicycle I hired did not fair well on the cobblestones in the old town.

 

It also did not have a 4×4 facility to help on the gravel sand and rocks.

 

Yes, I did discover the Caipirinha and sample a good few.

Also I discovered that you can eat your salad before your feijoada shown below.

 

Lindo maravilhoso!

Durga Puja, the Worship of the Hindu Goddess Durga, Returns to Calcutta, India (part 1) by Ron Mayhew Photography ~ Seeing & Learning Through the Lens

Ron is my latest favourite photographer:
http://ronmayhewphotography.com/
http://ronmayhewphotography.wordpress.com

Ron Mayhew

The Durga Puja (Pujo in Bengali) is celebrated in various parts of India in different styles, but not on the grand scale of the Festival in Calcutta. This year’s celebration will be starting in a few weeks. I attended and photographed Durga Puja in Kolkata in October, 2011.

The days are long. The heat and humidity are oppressive; the crowds, claustrophobic. The sights, sounds, and smells can be overwhelming at times. In spite of and because of the difficult conditions Durga Puja was truly an experience of a life time.

Below is the first of a two part post on that event.

To be in Calcutta, now officially named Kolkata, India, for the Durga Puja was an amazing experience and a photographer’s dream. The Puja is the worship of the Hindu goddess Durga when she revisits earth for four days each year in October. The wife of Shiva, Durga has four children: Lakshmi, Saraswati…

View original post 577 more words

Mom’s garden

During a recent visit to my mom I dropped into the back garden to see who was there.

A happy couple was seated under the bird bath.

A fierce lion was soaking up the rays.

This little fella was taking a well-deserved break.

There was also a: a lonesome swan.

A dangerous crocodile.

A cheerful little man.

A pair of frogs.

Otter with a claimed fish.

Mom otter and her little one.

Morning dew.

Last photo before home-time.

 

A more recent post on Mom’s Garden can be viewed here.