HDR (High dynamic range imaging) 2

HDR (High dynamic range imaging) 1 was a complete failure.

I went back to the drawing board and read a few paragraphs of Scott Kelby’s book. In my book, seriously, there was limited info. A lovely set of three books that I will certainly now read (been in the cupboard for 2 years untouched).

The Canon 550D camera “followed” me to work today, but it was sadly an overcast day. Not to be disheartened, I started snapping away in break-time. As soon as I got home (still overcast), I snapped some more. In the evening I went visiting and snapped much more.

Between Scott’s book and an online Canon tutorial, I discovered a number of settings I was unaware of when attempting HDR (High dynamic range imaging) 1. Little wonder I failed.

I was doomed to fail again when I tried to “HDR” my photos using the related feature in Corel PaintShop Photo Pro X3.

The wrong software for my very basic knowledge.

Saved by the bell (sort of)… Enter Trey Ratcliff, who featured in These chaps can really snap 2 (and paint).

I quickly skimmed through his tutorial on HDR as my bedtime was fast approaching.

Trey said Photomatix website so I rushed there and quickly downloaded the trial version of Photomatix Pro 4.2.5.

I have not produced any masterpieces below but really believe that the results are better than my first attempt in HDR (High dynamic range imaging) 1.

What do you fellow bloggers think? Same or a little better?

Bit like comic book photos but I love them.

Any hints and advice will also be appreciated.

The last photo is my least favourite but Raven did advise me to stick to daylight.

 

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14 thoughts on “HDR (High dynamic range imaging) 2”

  1. I prefer the 2nd and 3rd photo. I like the cars in the 1st one but not the halo around the building and trees. If you don`t want to decrease the strength in photomatix you can always dodge and burn those areas to make the transition smoother.

      1. Hi Andrew, dodge and burn just means to lighten and darken. I’m not familiar with PaintShop Photo Pro but you want something that can do local adjustments that are non-destructive or using layers. In both cases the effect is reversible. If you’re not sure if that can be done you can always make a copy and work on the copy instead. So whichever method you use you would then use a brush to adjust the brightness (by painting) and make the areas that are too bright (sky just over buildings/trees) darker. If there is an option on the brush to increase the “feather” use it as it helps blend the adjustment with the surroundings. Sorry I’m not familiar with PSP but most of the programs have similar techniques.

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