Whilst reading THE CULTUREUR this afternoon, I came across the post SPIRITUAL CHAOS ON THE HARIDWAR GHATS ALONG THE GANGES RIVER.
I immediately thought of Varansi (calm and chaos) and this inspired me to pull out some photos I recorded there during my last trip to India in 2011/2012.
I first went to India in 2009/10: see related blog here and some other photos here.
I have inserted my photos above, below and in between the comment by Wikipedia that enlightens us as follows “Varanasi (Hindustani pronunciation: [ʋaːˈraːɳəsi] (listen)), also commonly known as Benares, Banaras (Banāras [bəˈnaːrəs] (listen)) or Kashi (Kāśī [ˈkaːʃi] (listen)), is a city on the banks of the Ganges in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, 320 kilometres (200 mi) southeast of the state capital Lucknow.
It is regarded as a holy city by Hindus and Jains, and holiest of the seven most sacred Hindu cities (Sapta Puri), of its ancient historic, cultural and religious heritage. Hindus believe that death at Varanasi can bring salvation.
Body being transported to a ghat for cremation
It is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world and the oldest in India.
Unfortunately many of its temples were subject to plundering and destruction by Mohammad Ghauri in the 12th century. The temples and religious institutions seen now in the city are mostly of the 18th century vintage.
The Kashi Naresh (Maharaja of Kashi) is the chief cultural patron of Varanasi and an essential part of all religious celebrations.
The culture of Varanasi is closely associated with the River Ganges and the river’s religious importance.
The city has been a cultural and religious centre in North India for several thousand years and is one of the world’s most important religious centres with a history which transcends and unites most of the major world religions.
The Benares Gharanaform of the Indian classical music developed in Varanasi, and many prominent Indian philosophers, poets, writers, and musicians resided or reside in Varanasi. Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath located near Varanasi.
Varanasi is today considered to be the spiritual capital of India.Here scholarly books have been written.
Ramcharitmanas was composed by Tulsidas here while there is the temple Tulsi Manas Mandir that is famous here.
In addition to this, the largest residential University of Asia, Benares Hindu University is located here.
People often refer to Varanasi as “the city of temples”, “the holy city of India”, “the religious capital of India”, “the city of lights”, “the city of learning”, and “the oldest living city on earth.”
Ghats in Varanasi are an integral complimentary to the concept of divinity represented in physical, metaphysical and supernatural elements.
All the ghats are locations on “the divine cosmic road,” indicative of “its manifest transcendental dimension.” Varanasi has at least 84 ghats.
Steps in the ghats (ghats are embankments made in steps of stone slabs along the river bank where pilgrims perform ritual ablutions) lead to the banks of River Ganges, including the Dashashwamedh Ghat, the Manikarnika Ghat, the Panchganga Ghat and the Harishchandra Ghat (where Hindus cremate their dead).
Many ghats are associated with legends and several are now privately owned.Many of the ghats were built when the city was under Maratha control.
Marathas, Shindes (Scindias), Holkars, Bhonsles, and Peshwas stand out as patrons of present-day Varanasi.
Most of the ghats are bathing ghats, while others are used as cremation sites.
Flash not allowed at cremation ghat and my settings were off
Morning boat ride on the Ganges across the ghats is a popular visitors attraction. The miles and miles of ghats makes for the lovely river front with multitude of shrines, temples and palaces built “tier on tier above the water’s edge”.
The Dashashwamedh Ghat is the main and probably the oldest ghat of Varansi located on the Ganges, close to the Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
It is believed that the god Brahma created it to welcome Shiva and he also sacrificed ten horses during Dasa -Ashwamedha yajna performed here.
Above the ghat and close to it, there are also temples dedicated to Sulatankesvara, Brahmesvara, Varahesvara, Abhaya Vinayaka, Ganga (the Ganges), and Bandi Devi which are part of important pilgrimage journeys.
A group of priests perform “Agni Pooja” (Worship to Fire) daily in the evening at this ghat as a dedication to Shiva, Ganga, Surya (Sun), Agni (Fire), and the whole universe.
Special aartis are held on Tuesdays and on religious festivals. The Manikarnika Ghat is the Mahasmasana (meaning: “great cremation ground”) and is the primary site for Hindu cremation in the city. Adjoining the ghat, there are raised platforms that are used for death anniversary rituals.
Flash not allowed at cremation ghat and my settings were off
It is said that an ear-ring (Manikarnika) of Shiva or his wife Sati fell here. According to a myth related to the Tarakesvara Temple, a Shiva temple at the ghat, Shiva whispers the Taraka mantra (“Prayer of the crossing”) in the ear of the dead.
Fourth-century Gupta period inscriptions mention this ghat. However, the current ghat as a permanent river side embankment was built in the 1302 and has been renovated at least thrice.”
I also found out that kite flying (or fighting) was important in Varanasi ; but even more so in Jaipur where the youngsters and adults ran around madly after fallen kites.
Fun in the afternoon
Rooftops were a hive of activity
She “shared” her puppies with me (rooftop of Suraj Guest House; the owner’s daughter)
Suraj Guest House is a good bet when looking for somewhere to stay
The owner was very helpful and accommodating – visit Suraj website here
No post about Varanasi would be complete if Ganga Fuji Restaurant was not mentioned. The owner Kailash asks that you design a “country of origin” poster for his wall
Lovely non-oily food and great entertainment
Some uninformed person called the food bland. The owner cooks exactly what you ask for i.e. freaking hot spicy or mild like a cucumber
Bhai on drums!
Ganga Fuji was recommended by the owner of Suraj: good contacts usually recommend good contacts
Impromptu hair appointment
Roadside food stall
Outskirts of Varanasi – Chinese Buddhist temple at Sarnath
Sarnath is where Buddha gave his first sermon.
It was a lovely break from the hustle and bustle of Varanasi, but we will leave all of that for another day & post.
Some related posts you may be interested in:
Durga Puja, the Worship of the Hindu Goddess Durga, Returns to Calcutta, India (part 1)
A must watch documentary filmed at Varanasi:
16 thoughts on “Varanasi”
I found Varanassi to be the most difficult city I visited over my 12 years in India, but also the most of everything that India truly is. From the best to the worst. And the colors…and sites….it was truly a photographers paradise for sure. Truly an amazing place and a must to visit at some point. thanks for sharing your wonderful shots. 🙂
I agree Jane. Getting lost there and standing on cow dung is mandatory in the narrow alleys 🙂
Thank you for letting me tag along on your adventure…
If you are interested by BENARES, take a look at this book : ” End Time city ” by Michael Ackerman
Phew! Thank you – I had a quick peek. Some moving images.
From Library Journal “India and the people who live there are the subjects of these books, each of which demonstrates a different approach to the art of documentary photography. A seasoned photojournalist, McCullin first visited India on assignment in the late 1960s.
This survey of his photographs from many subsequent visits includes 90 black-and-white and four color imagesAmostly group scenes and portraits. Some of his images are well known, especially the street scenes depicting beggars and the portraits of refugees.
These sometimes disturbing images depict a people and their circumstances over the last half of this century and represent an impressive collection for the photographer. Whereas McCullin photographs his subjects in a classic documentary style, with clarity, precision, and a sense of distance, Ackerman takes a more emotional and immediate approach. This young photographer’s first book comprises primarily images made in Benares between 1993 and 1997.
Though the title refers to the cremation grounds to which people travel from all over India to end their temporal existence, Ackerman’s photographs are kinetically alive. His eye ranges from the streets to the cremation grounds, from interior moments to ritual dances. The approximately 70 images depart from straight documentary by inviting bursts of light and dark, blur, grain, and texture as aesthetic components.
The result is a compelling collection of charged images. Where McCullin shows us what India and its people look like, Ackerman lets us know what India, especially Benares, can feel like. End Time City would make a good addition to academic collections, and both books should be considered for large public libraries.
ADebora Miller, Minneapolis, MN” Copyright 1999 Reed Business Information, Inc. Text by: Christian Caujolle et note d’Adam CohenPublisher: Nathan / Delpire (1999)140 pagesSize: 26,7×29,8 cmISBN :209754195X
Michael Ackerman: Represented by Gallery VU
Hey Andy, haven’t done Varanasi as yet. I’m quite fascinated. Have to put this on my bucket list
Hi Rena! Very fascinating place; and we only scratched the surface
Reblogged this on Andy: Photographer, Traveller & Chef and commented:
Some more of Varanasi, India for those of you who may be interested.
I have just watched “Beyond” and was captivated. The link to this great documentary is http://vimeo.com/55246312
Also, fellow blogger previously referred me to Michael Ackerman’s “End Time City” – see more at http://vimeo.com/40309821
An amazing post Andrew. Thanks for posting.
Thank you so much for the lovely compliment
Awesome post! I would love to see this part of India. There is a great trek to the Source of the Gangas that I would love to do someday. Thanks so much for sharing and I love your blog!!!
Thank you so much for the lovely compliment
I’m an Indian, but I’ve never been particularly drawn to Varanasi even thought most people I know who’ve been there call it their favourite city. For the first time, after seeing these images, I’m beginning to feel a SLIGHT desire to visit.
This is beautiful!
People always tell me about dirt and chaos in India. Yes, if you look for it you will certainly see lots of it. Peace, beauty and love ~ lots of that too :). Catching the overnight train there (1st class) and then open class for an hour was an eye-opener! Burning of bodies and transporting of the dead on a car’s roof ~ worthwhile to see: we all going there 😉